W

hile walking along the vineyard, Ochogavia explained the genesis of the cultivation process. From the preparation of the soil for the vines to grow to the nurturing and protection against any virus, the registration and approval from various industry authorities as well as finding an appropriate grape name that has not already been acquired, is all established before any wine production can even begin. In a field shaped with complexity it seems as if it is the grapes themselves that are the fastest component in this slow but necessary process to get the wine in production. Growing quickly, in much larger bunches and in various colours, (as opposed to more common varieties of grapes that take one dark tone), it’s as if these hidden gems are bursting to please and are screaming to be noticed once more. So why bother to revive a forgotten grape variety? What are the benefits – apart from a supremely interesting project? The importance of having local varieties in a world full of mass production and global sameness is not only because these tend to be fresher, more vibrant wines that pair effortlessly with regional cuisine. It’s an idea that reduces the environmental impact of transportation and involves more eco conscious farming practices. These vineyards contribute to agricultural biodiversity and help build resilience in the ever looming face of climate change. All good things, but what also stands out is the reflection of Mallorca’s unique climate, soil and geography, of capturing a sense of place that cannot be replicated elsewhere. This “terroir” gives each wine a distinctive identity –– a way to really taste the history of the land.

Another benefit to these grape varieties is that they generally produce a lower alcohol content – some barely reaching 8%, an approach that has been gaining popularity in today’s market. Although more structured wines, like Can Axartell’s classic Ventum, a Merlot/Syrah blend, which will always bring comfort and nostalgia with its more robust flavours, this new (old) wine could be a natural evolution from old to new again. For winemakers, producing lower alcohol wines is both an art and a science. A return to finesse over force, which allows this “terroir” and craftsmanship to shine without the interference of excess. It’s a challenge but also a quiet rebellion against the notion that bolder is always better.