Feb 10, 2025
Maca de Castro, The Future is the Land
- By
Hélène Huret
Maca de Castro, The Future is the Land
Feb 10, 2025
by
Hélène Huret
Maca de Castro, The Future is the Land
Feb 10, 2025
by
Hélène Huret
Maca de Castro, The Future is the Land
Feb 10, 2025
- By
Hélène Huret
Maca de Castro, The Future is the Land
Feb 10, 2025
- By
Hélène Huret
sustainability
Maca de Castro, The Future is the Land
Feb 10, 2025
- By
Hélène Huret
Exterior of Maca de Castro restaurant, Alcudia
I

t was in the Basque country, at the dawn of 2000, that Maca de Castro discovered her vocation. In 1998, Gastromika, the San Sebastian festival, opened its doors and welcomed the most avant-garde Spanish chefs. These included Ferran Adria, Joan Roca, Andoni Luis Arduriz and Quique da Costa, all chefs whose creativity was revolutionising the world of gastronomy. At the time, Mallorca was a far cry from the avant-garde San Sebastian. The cuisine was international, without much soul or identity. Maca de Castro's parents owned a fast food restaurant (hamburgesaria), and a disco. “The cooks I saw were old, their kitchens were dirty, it wasn't attractive. I couldn't see myself doing that job. As I was about to give up, my father took me to San Sebastian," recalls Maca. Her father was secretly hoping that something would happen so that his daughter could take over the family business. And it did.  “At San Sebastian,” explains the chef, “we discovered what was going to happen in Spain over the next few years. There were women like Carmen Ruscalleda and Elena Arzak, and lots of young people, and that convinced me.”

So the Mallorcan donned her chef's jacket and began to experiment. After a season at Le Jardin, her parents' restaurant, she went on a training course every winter for 11 years. She trained with some of the greatest chefs and developed her cooking. “We stopped using frozen fish, we made mashed potatoes with butter, and we put more care into our dishes”. The hard work has paid off: in 2011, Maca's cuisine, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary, was awarded a Michelin star. A star that has never been extinguished.

A

fter yet another internship, Maca opened a bistro and started working on events, realising the importance of having different catering models. Today, the Maca de Castro group, which she runs with her brother, includes a gourmet restaurant, two bistros (one in Alcudia, one in Palma), a restaurant in Dusseldorf, an events service, the catering side of the Son Veri finca and, of course, Maca's passion, vegetable gardens.

It was in Uruguay, where this traveller at heart ran a restaurant for 5 years, that she connected with agriculture. “The restaurant had a small vegetable garden and I wanted to do the same thing in Mallorca”. As Alcudia is next to Sa Pobla, the most agricultural village on the island, it was easy to find the land. The rest is another story. “Growing your own vegetables is difficult,” explains Maca, “much more so than cooking. “Four people work full-time in the gardens that supply all the restaurants with fruit and vegetables. Every season, more than 20 varieties of vegetables, a dozen aromatic herbs and at least five fruits are grown." Some, like the peanuts that Maca uses in sauces or to make turrons, are extremely complicated to produce. “You have to remember”, says Maca, "that in the past Mallorca exported peanuts, and we produced more peanuts than potatoes. The peanut is a root that can rot, due to a kind of small worm that gets into the fruit. To get rid of it, you have to dig up the peanuts every 15 days, clean and dry them. The tomato, which seems so obvious, also gives us a hard time some years.

Once a week," explains Maca, “I go around to all of the kitchen gardens with Margalida, who manages the teams. We estimate what we'll be able to harvest in the next seven or even fifteen days, but everything can change in a week!  It's complicated but exciting."  Working in the vegetable garden changes the mentality around cooking. Maca works with the whole product. She uses fig leaves, for example, and comes up with some surprising but sensible combinations, such as a dessert based on onions – one of the sweetest vegetables – and fig leaves infused in milk. “I also like to work with tomato skins,” she continues, “as they are rich in pectin, making them ideal for gazpacho and avoiding the use of breadcrumbs and gluten”.

“Growing your own vegetables is difficult, much more so than cooking. Four people work full-time in the gardens that supply all the restaurants with fruit and vegetables. Every season, more than 20 varieties of vegetables, a dozen aromatic herbs and at least 5 fruits are grown."
28 spinach leaves with camaiot. Spinach tartlet with wild strawberry and pepper
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