Dec 19, 2024
Loop Brodats: Preserving Mallorca’s Heritage One Stitch at a Time
- By
Blaire Dessent
Loop Brodats: Preserving Mallorca’s Heritage One Stitch at a Time
Dec 19, 2024
by
Blaire Dessent
Loop Brodats: Preserving Mallorca’s Heritage One Stitch at a Time
Dec 19, 2024
by
Blaire Dessent
Loop Brodats: Preserving Mallorca’s Heritage One Stitch at a Time
Dec 19, 2024
- By
Blaire Dessent
Loop Brodats: Preserving Mallorca’s Heritage One Stitch at a Time
Dec 19, 2024
- By
Blaire Dessent
sustainability
Loop Brodats: Preserving Mallorca’s Heritage One Stitch at a Time
Dec 19, 2024
- By
Blaire Dessent
Loop Brodats, Archival material, Photo: Grimalt de Blanch
E

arlier this month, LOOP Disseny i Circularitat, which is part of the Agencia de Desarrollo Regional de las Illes Balears, presented: “Embroidery, Retrospective and Needlework Design,” at 110 Inca. The initiative brought together five leading designers on the island with four embroiderers, to create a design or series of designs that would value the beauty and tradition of this technique while showing how it can be applied in a more contemporary way. Embroidery has been a craft passed down through generations in Mallorca, typically among women, and today it is considered part of the cultural patrimony of the Balearics. Whether for tablecloths, family heirlooms or clothing, embroidery has told stories and added beauty for centuries. Today, the tradition is slowly dying out, as the demand fades, so do the people who know the techniques and can do it. LOOP Brodats is an important step in helping preserve this craft and its makers, and hopefully spark new ideas among younger generations. 

The exhibition included clothing, footwear and art works made by Datura, Edicions de Disseny LPM, Carmina Shoemaker, Cecilia Sörensen, Open Studio 79 and Chiara Ferrari Studio, with specially designed embroidery made by Francisca Moyà, Miquela Ballester, Catalina Trias and Magdalena Trias. There were ten different types of stitching used including: brodat mallorquin, punt de cadeneta and punt de nusos. The embroiders worked with the designers to find the stitches that might best connect with their ideas. Some were subtle and muted while others were more stylised and made with bolder colours. 

Skirt and vest by Stefania Borras of Datura with embroidery by Francisca Moya
Tatiana Sarasa, Re-Cordis, Installation view, Photo: Grimalt de Blanch
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he artist Tatiana Sarasa, founder of Open Studio 79, created an atmospheric artwork titled Re-Cordis, a play on words that signifies ‘to remember’ as well as cordis (latin) or ‘cor’ the Catalan word for heart. A white cloth was draped over a chair, part of it still bound in the traditional circular loop that is used to tighten the fabric for embroidery. Working with Francisca Moya, a detailed image of a heart, made in white embroidered stitches is held inside the embroidery circle. At the base of the draped fabric, which lies over a circular table, are the words: Re-Cordis, a soft yet powerful message of remembering and of holding these traditions close to the heart. As part of the installation, the sound of a beating heart was softly pumping through a speaker. 

Fashion designer Cecilia Sörensen presented a small collection of dresses and jackets from her Fall/winter 2024 collection, mixing her minimal, Scandinavian-inspired designs with contemporary takes on traditional  embroideries.  “Olivera” is a brown linen jacket with an olive branch stitched in a bright lime green thread; a white summery dress, “Moix”, the word for ‘cat’ in Catalan, has a white embroidered image of her Mallorcan cat. Fun and playful, the designs worked naturally. 

Stefania Borrás, the designer behind Datura, highlighted the possibilities of embroidery onto more formal wear, featuring floral and herbal motifs native to the island – such as olive and fennel – done in different types of black stitching applied onto an elegant pleated black mesh skirt and vest that was contemporary but also called to mind the traditional payesa outfit of Mallorca. This piece highlighted the delicate, feminine application of this craft. 

"Embroidery has been a craft passed down through generations in Mallorca, typically among women, and today it is considered part of the cultural patrimony of the Balearics. Whether for tablecloths, family heirlooms or clothing, embroidery has told stories and added beauty for centuries."
Loop Brodats, Installation view, Photo: Grimalt de Blanch
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