Aug 5, 2024
The Legacy of Olive Oil, the Green Gold of Mallorca
- By
Hélène Huret
The Legacy of Olive Oil, the Green Gold of Mallorca
Aug 5, 2024
by
Hélène Huret
The Legacy of Olive Oil, the Green Gold of Mallorca
Aug 5, 2024
by
Hélène Huret
The Legacy of Olive Oil, the Green Gold of Mallorca
Aug 5, 2024
- By
Hélène Huret
The Legacy of Olive Oil, the Green Gold of Mallorca
Aug 5, 2024
- By
Hélène Huret
The Legacy of Olive Oil, the Green Gold of Mallorca
Aug 5, 2024
- By
Hélène Huret
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ultivated in the Tramuntana Mountains, the olive tree shapes the Mallorcan landscape and gives it a unique identity, the result of the union between majestic nature, where the mountain peaks at over 1000 metres, and human labour, which over the centuries painstakingly created irrigation canals, terraces, and stone paths. To be convinced, one only needs to walk in the Sierra de Tramuntana towards the Barranc de Biniaraix or on the Muleta path (GR 221) connecting Soller to Deia, or admire the Can Det olive tree, elected Spain's Best Monumental Olive Tree. This tree, with its massive trunk, bears witness to its long life, having been planted in the 9th century by the Moors. At that time, the olive tree, brought by the Phoenicians, had acclimated to the island. When the Moors settled in Mallorca, they brought with them apricots, eggplants and artichokes, and developed subsistence agriculture. Each village sought self-sufficiency and cultivated cereals, vegetables, grapes, and olives. Skillful and ingenious, the Moors developed an irrigation system still visible in the Tramuntana. To prevent water from flowing away and causing erosion, they built terraces on the mountainsides.

In the 13th century, King Jaume I completed the reconquest of the island. He enslaved the Moors and "specialised" the island in the cultivation of olives, cereals, and vines. Olive oil particularly interested the young King of Majorca as its trade was booming: in the 13th century, people even used olive oil for lighting. 

Jaume transformed the Tramuntana into an industrial domain. He had 20,000 km of dry stone terraces built, used the irrigation systems developed by the Moors, and grafted wild olive trees with productive varieties. The trade flourished, and the olive groves became gold mines. The soap industry, which developed in Marseille, required tons of olive oil: 12,000 quintals left the ports of Palma or Soller for the city at the end of the 18th century.

Photo courtesy of Aubocassa
Photo courtesy of Aubocassa

But gradually, Mallorcan olive groves showed their weaknesses and lost market share. In the 19th century, petroleum, soon replaced by electricity, allowed lighting without oil. Marseille imported the necessary oil for its soaps from Africa or the Middle East. Based on extensive cultivation, yields in Mallorca were low and the quality of the oil, mostly used for industrial purposes, was mediocre. Only oil from the first pressing was used as food. Until the mid-20th century, cooking was done more with pork fat (still found in ensaimadas) than with olive oil. Gradually, olive trees were replaced by almond and carob trees, and the olive groves of the Tramuntana were abandoned. The rapid development of tourism from the 1950s onwards exacerbated the trend. Of the 500 oil mills that populated the Tramuntana, only 3 or 4 remain in operation.

Elsewhere, the opposite trend occurred: olive oil production multiplied by 2.5 between 1960 and 2000. Mainland Spain became the largest producer in the world with ultra-intensive production methods.

In the 1990s, olive trees were replanted in the plains of Mallorca, making cultivation much easier and allowing prices to drop. "Terraced cultivation," notes Barbara Iten, a guide at Ses Moragues, "is demanding and costly (producing a litre in the Tramuntana costs 40 euros compared to 3 to 4 euros in the plains and 0.80 cents in Andalusia) but it helps preserve this incredible heritage." In 2002, the DO (Denomination of Origin) of Majorca was created. The varieties that grow on the island: empeltre, picual, and arbequina, depending on the maturity stage of the olives, produce mild, fruity, or even bold oils when the olives are still green when pressed. The designation today brings together more than 1000 olive growers, many of whom open their doors to visitors. It's up to you to knock on the right door.

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